Isle of Harris - the unpolished jewel of the Outer Hebrides Part II
- Denise Bertram
- May 12
- 4 min read
In contrast to Lewis, Harris is much more dramatic. Off the rugged coastline, small, emerald-green islands lie like scattered jewels in the deep blue waters of the Atlantic.
I was particularly impressed by the Golden Road —one of the most scenic roads I've ever driven on. It feels like being immersed in another world. Occasionally, small houses appear, but otherwise, this rugged, barren, yet beautiful land belongs to the sheep and animals that live in the clear, salty waters.
We've often wondered how the people here make a living. I imagine a very modest, frugal life, shaped by nature and fishing and crabbing . Even the names of the places— Geocrab , Fleoideabhagh , and Fionnsabhagh —sound strange and mysterious to our ears.
I was so fascinated by this area that we drove the same route two days in a row — and each time we discovered something new.
We had a special experience on our very first day: We encountered the Lord of Harris . What a majestic animal! He stood there proud and stoic, a ram of impressive presence . I could hardly take my eyes off his majestic appearance. Thus, the portrait of an animal emerged, whose entire appearance is a worthy representative of this wild and fascinating island.
On the second day, I spotted a group of seals . Most of them were already in the water, and only a few were still lying on the rocks. As I slowly approached them, they watched me curiously. At first, they were cautious—they all dived under in unison, as if on some secret signal, only to resurface a little closer shortly afterwards.
Over time, about 25 seals circled me, their round heads sticking out of the water, their dark eyes examining me attentively. In that moment, I felt almost like the conductor of an invisible orchestra, moving wordlessly and harmoniously around me.
I took my pictures and was simply happy to have such a quiet and touching experience of nature .
Our route then led us to the west coast of Harris , which is completely different in landscape than the dramatic east side. Wide sandbanks and endless, almost unrealistically beautiful beaches stretch along the coast. The breathtaking sandy beaches, in particular, almost evoke a Caribbean feeling for a moment—if it weren't for the significantly cooler temperatures ;-)
Above all, the famous Luskentyre Beach , which has not been named one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe without reason. The fine, light sand, the turquoise water, and the impressive expanse of this place are simply stunning. I can only fully understand this award—here, for a moment, you feel far away from everything.
For a short break or lunch, the modern café at Talla na Mara (https://www.tallanamara.co.uk/our-space/ ) offers a magnificent view of the stunning Nisabost Beach . From there, the coast stretches all the way up to Tarbert —a single scenic highlight that barely leaves you time to breathe, so many beautiful sights lined up one after the other.
and then there's HARRIS TWEED... :-))
What makes the Outer Hebrides so special, besides their incomparable natural beauty, is their deep-rooted heritage of craftsmanship—most notably the legendary Harris Tweed . This fabric is far more than just a textile. It is a piece of living history, a symbol of the people's connection to their land and their traditions.
For centuries, Harris Tweed has been made from pure new wool, spun exclusively in the Outer Hebrides and woven by hand on small looms in the island weavers' cottages. Every meter of this fabric speaks of patience, craftsmanship, and a deep love for this rugged, wild landscape.
The colors of the tweed reflect the nature of the islands: the rich mossy green of the hills, the rugged gray of the rocks, the warm brown of the peat bogs, and the deep blue of the Atlantic. No fabric in the world has such a close connection to its homeland as Harris Tweed.
It is the only textile in the world protected by its own law—the Harris Tweed Act of 1993. Only fabrics produced according to strict rules in the Outer Hebrides may bear the famous Harris Tweed Orb label .
When you travel here, you understand why this fabric is so unique. It's not just clothing, but a piece of island history that has lasted through generations. A piece of the Hebrides for eternity – and it was clear to me long before this trip that I would fall in love with the world of Harris Tweed .
...And for the coffee lovers among you, here's a little insider tip : You won't exactly be spoilt for choice with a huge variety of cafes on Harris , but there is a man who can make you the best latte, cortado , or whatever coffee you're after. His name is Sean , he's originally from Australia, and he usually stays in Tarbert with his little caravan. How lucky that we found him! At the moment he's on Portobello Beach in Edinburgh , but he'll definitely be back on "his island" in the autumn. Unfortunately, he doesn't have his own website, but you can find him on Instagram under " islecoffeeharris ."
The Isle of Harris is definitely one of my favorite places in Scotland, and it's a pity it's so far away. But that's probably what makes it so unique—if it weren't so remote, it might not have this special magic .
The end of the world definitely couldn't be more beautiful...
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